In three words: Welcoming, Vibrant, Wholesome
The Lowdown: Little history lesson – the Boston Tea Party is an iconic protest in American history, being the key event in the growth of the American Revelation. But to those in the South West it probably means a completely different thing – a place to get nourishing and homely meals, freshly prepared on the premises, which support local suppliers wherever possible. Since the first cafe opened on Bristol’s Park Street back in 1995, it has grown to include 15 more sites, with another one on its way.
So what’s the recipe for success? Well, there are a number of things that are in common throughout – a dedication to using seasonably changing produce to fabulous effect, a focus on sustainability, and generous portions of delicious food with an emphasis on taste. Beneath the casual, friendly atmosphere of café culture there actually lies a fierce commitment to social responsibly.
Location: We visited the Bath site – a compact, semicircular space on the cobbles of Kingsmead Square, where the inside is bathed with light from huge windows and there are tables scattered outside beneath the boughs of a sprawling tree. Other sites include Exeter, Salisbury, five more in Bristol, and they’ve even spread their wings to Birmingham.
Decor: Inside the Bath BTP there is a casual style that embraces the notion of reclaimed items, such as the wooden counter and tiles on the wall, as well as sumptuous chestnut-leather banquettes and huge windows for extra brightness. This sense of rustic-chic is continued with the wildflowers that are dotted along the tables, and there are quirky little touches like artwork of other sites. Outside the sunshine yellow tables make a lovely contrast to the teal blue exterior that has become synonymous with these establishments.
Atmosphere: The Boston Tea Party of Bath attracts a mish-mash of brunch-loving students, café enthusiasts and the general well-heeled folk of the city who always seem to be constantly lunching out. There’s a comfortable refinement about the place, combined with a bustling sense of genial chaos when it is busy. Other sites deliver different vibes – Stokes Croft, for instance, has that cool-Bristol nonchalance.
Menu Concept: Fresh, honest food made from scratch, with a focus on local suppliers. Eggs and meat are free range, bread is from Hobbs House Bakery, and the salad leaves are grown in Bristol by The Severn Project. Boston Tea Party do a roaring trade in breakfast and brunch, which they serve all day – the classic West Country Breakfast is always a star, but they also offer interesting items such a Kedgeree, Chorizo Hash and Scotch Pancakes. Those wanting lunch are spoilt for choice with a range of dishes that embrace various global cuisine – from oriental Sesame chicken to Halloumi Pitta and some truly impressive sandwiches.
What We Ate: Although completely tempted by the site of another happy customer tucking into Eggs Royale with avocado, I couldn’t help but get sidetracked by the idea of baked chicken enchilada. The promises of such fresh ingredients suggested that it would be about as far away from a greasy fast-food dish as one could hope for – and I was right. Whoever was in charge of cooking knows the pure and simple fact that anything with a cheese topping should be cooked so the edges become completely crispy – not since my grandma’s lasagna have I enjoyed food stuff such as this before. The chicken beneath the layers was succulent and wonderfully cooked, slathered in a piquant tomato salsa and nuzzling up to sweet corn and black beans. A mound of vibrantly green, creamy avocado topped the crust, studded with the gems of bright red cherry tomatoes. It tasted like the kind of food you get a sudden and complete urge for – comforting with every bite. I loved it.
My dining partner was rather more virtuous, instead going for the Super Salad. And yet, having seen it, I would be happy to order it myself – healthy, yes, but also absolutely packed with flavour combinations that worked wonderfully. The textures were the stars here – a crunch of sugar snap, the silky sliver of exotic mango, and the nutty bite of hazelnut all combined for ultimate deliciousness.
No trip to Boston Tea Party would be complete without one of their cakes – they are both gargantuan and utterly delicious. After ten minutes perusal and complete indecision we narrowed it down to the Banana and Salted Caramel loaf and the Berry Cobbler. Moist, indulgent and completely more-ish – we didn’t think we’d finish both, but boy were we wrong.
Overall: I can see why Boston Tea Party has thrived and continues to attract fans of all ages – there is an honest joy to its dishes that is just infectious. It is food made with love and care, with the intention of making you smile. The idea isn’t to be confused by it, or impressed by how cutting-edge it’s trying to be, or any of that nonsense that some cafes might try and jump on these days – it is purely dedicated to the happiness of the customer. Their ethos shines through in their delivery, and after a visit here you’re stomach will be delighted, you’ll feel nourished, and you might find yourself that little bit more positive about the world too. It’s amazing what the power of a good meal can do.