In three words: Superb, Charming, Attentive
The Lowdown: I’ve not found anyone that has visited Bath and had a bad word to say about it – there’s something about those honey-coloured stones and beautiful architecture that steals the heart. Nestled in the countryside, it’s a train-ride of pastoral perfection from London, past rolling hills and quaint villages, and once you’ve arrived there are a myriad things to do – shopping, visiting the Spa, eating…
Bath has a selection of fabulous independent restaurants that are proudly battling for space with the usual chain affairs, and once you know their location then it’s worth seeking out these gems. One example is undoubtedly The Circus Café and Restaurant – it takes its name from the grand piece of Georgian architecture that Bath is so famous for. Renovated in 2007 by Ali and Geoffrey Golden, it has now become synonymous with exemplary service, the freshest of food, and standards that continue to delight diners.
Location: The Circus is a magnificent ring of townhouses that are a prime piece of Georgian architecture – begun in 1754 and completed in 1768, this stunning landmark draws admiring tourists on a daily basis. Brock Street is a pretty paved little road that leads off towards another famed attraction, the Royal Crescent; it is between these two icons of structural history that The Circus restaurant has nestled.
The Occasion: This is a beautiful place to come for a treat – whether celebrating an anniversary or birthday, a special occasion, or simply having a long overdue catch up, there is definitely the sense that a visit here will provide that extra bit of magic.
Decor: Upon entering, the ground floor room has a handful of tables, including two lovely padded suede window seats that allow the light to flood onto diners. You wouldn’t know, but downstairs the restaurant unfurls into a golden cavern providing more occupancy for larger groups and couples alike. Colours are warm and welcoming, lighting is soft, and there’s the hypnotic sense of being caught in the magical hue of candle’s glow.
Atmosphere: There’s definitely a refinement to The Circus that speaks of how well-heeled the Bath lot are, and yet one feels instantly comfortable and relaxed. This is partly due to the assured competence of the staff – there is no sense of flurry or hurry, just a calm serenity that is highly conducive to enjoying a good meal.
Culinary Concept: The Circus uses the freshest produce and creates seasonally changing menus – when you have experienced the food you will appreciate how the ingredients are allowed to take centre stage. Head chef and owner Alison Golden has a fierce respect for flavour, letting it shine through without any superfluous flourishes.
What we tried: The sun was shining as we approached The Circus, putting us in a sprightly, summery mood. The menu perfectly reflected this – lighter dishes with hints of seasonal fruit and vegetable nudging up to lamb and crab. The latter ingredient enticed us for a starter, as did the other seafood offering of scallops.
The crabmeat salad served with lamb’s lettuce was jaw-droppingly generous. No tiny speckle of meat hiding under leaves here – instead great chunks of tender flesh that brought waves of nostalgia for beach-huts, sand between our toes, and perilously exploring rock-pools in South Devon.
The scallops were divine – hearty coins of prime seafood, as soft and sumptuous as the padded armchairs one finds in the foyer of a luxury hotel. These giant beasts had been cooked to perfection by the chef – they had that squeaky resistance upon biting and then pow, the succulent sweetness of scallop. Shards of home-cured pork belly provided a salty, robust crunch, and the apple and bergamot puree married it together wonderfully.
On to the main course, and once more we were seduced by seafood – the special of lemon sole with crayfish in a parsley and butter sauce was too much of a draw. Again, the portion size was terrific – a whole fish landed on our plate, smothered in a delicate and yet flavourful sauce, with the little crescent curls of plump pink crayfish studding the surface like gems. The sauce was delightful – creamy and just rich enough without overpowering the flakes of white fish. Chips were gargantuan golden rectangles, impossibly fluffy within but with a crust that crunched beneath our teeth. After an assiduous cross-section examination we decided they were some of the best we’d had.
Who’d have thought we’d have managed dessert? Well, when one has dined so well it’s hard to stop. A Gooseberry and Elderflower crème brulee had a gorgeously thick topping of amber caramel that cracked satisfyingly to reveal a silky filling, complemented by tangy sharp fruit. The perfect end to a rather incredible meal.
Best of the Booze: We started the night with apertifs – a splendid Negroni whipped up by our waiter Ben, and a G&T made with Six o Clock gin from nearby Bristol, served with a slice of orange that offered a citrusy sweetness. Another wonderful thing about The Circus is that they have a number of wines by the half bottle, and so we started with Pinot Blanc from The Trimbach Family – clean, aromatic and with a hint of wonderful green apple freshness. After this we moved onto a Macon-Chardonnay, which was resplendent with soft gold fruits and honeysuckle for a far rounder finish. Both were expert recommendations from Ben.
Overall: Sometimes the simplest things are the most effective – but in a time when competition is so fierce, chefs can forget this in an effort to follow the new ‘trend.’ It’s refreshing and wonderful to see that Ali Golden disregards these fads and is instead committed to bringing the freshest of flavours to the plate. The Circus, like the fabulous architecture that surrounds it, does not bend to the whims of fashion – instead it produces superb dishes that will continue to impress diners for a long time to come.
The Circus Café and Restaurant
@CircusBath
