Bath has no shortage of twee tea rooms and elegant restaurants surrounded by Georgian architecture – its beautiful honey-coloured buildings and Roman history are part of the tourist appeal, after all. But this is why it can be so refreshing to find something different – an establishment that brings the same quality of service and cuisine to guests, while also not being afraid to fly the flag for that quirkier approach.
And Café 15 – the dining element of No.15 Great Pulteney hotel – is one of these places that isn’t afraid to be different. It’s situated in the eye-wateringly beautiful stretch of prime real-estate that is Great Pulteney Street, with the wide boulevard down which you can imagine horses pulling lavish carriages and ladies in petticoats ducking into a townhouse porch resplendent with impressive columns. At the exterior of the hotel prepare to be enveloped in the cloud of scented flowers, while inside a whimsical array of knick knacks and curios awaits. One wall displays a collection of jewel-hued kaleidoscopes – another showcases earthenware jugs that could have been excavated from burial grounds. In the reception lounge you’ll find a replica of Big Ben, and be offered your keys from a Doll’s House – everything here exudes true boutique originality.
And this eccentric style extends to the bar – a gorgeously bright and airy room with windows looking onto the street, and tabes that are clustered with glinting jewellery and multicoloured trinkets below the glass. You almost feel like you’re gazing into a corner of Aladdin’s cave, or a magpie’s nest – there is interest everywhere. It’s impossible not to let your eyes wander, but the calming tones of cream, peach and pink create a sedate backdrop to these clusters of colour.
The tongue-in-cheek fun continues to the cocktails – because who needs a menu when you have a pack of playing cards, carefully altered to represent different creative cocktails? And creative they really are – curve-balls like lobster bisque, basil syrup and dried fruits share space with the more traditional ingredients of your classic tipples. Expect to spend quite some time sorting through them, picking your favourites, dividing them into piles, and then returning to the more unusual mixes, wondering if you dare… in the end, I opted for the Golden Martini – a luxurious and unique mix of Saffron and Chilli-infused Gin, and not much else apart from a garnish of Parmesan Stuffed Olives. Not for the faint-hearted (and perhaps not the wisest on an empty stomach), it is nevertheless a must-order for any fans of the juniper spirit. The gin had been perfectly infused so a faint kick of chilli blended with the honeyed saffron, and created a cocktail that kept on surprising the taste-buds even after the glass was nearly empty. This was largely due to the genius addition of the olives – the brininess and salty parmesan added a savoury note that intensified with time. And the presentation was lovely – a shimmering golden martini glass that had most definitely been given the Midas touch.
Another theatrically served tipple is the Puteney’s Muse – tequila, rum, mixed berries and sage, all bound together with a pomegranate and basil tonic. A lot of elements going on here, but it managed to combine into a delightfully drinkable cocktail. Served on a wooden tray, it could initially have passed for a science experiment – there was a mixing beaker containing a pink liquid, and two cloches filled with smoke. Lifting these emitted a wonderful herbaceous fragrance tempered with a berry-sweetness, and when all the ingredients had been mixed then the result was a tart cocktail with a garden bitterness combined with juicy pomegranate and, naturally, the boozy combo of tequila and rum.
After this it was time to wobble downstairs to Café 15 (we braved the stairs, but lifts are available for anyone who can’t resist two of those martinis pre-dinner), as the restaurant is set below street level. However, there’s nothing dark or dingy about the room – doors are thrown open to the evening light, and a host of colourful apothecary bottles line the shelves, glowing with a stained-glass lustre. Unusual lampshades drip from the ceiling, brocade curtains are swept back from the floor-to-ceiling windows, and keep an eye out for the wall of whisks. The whole space manages to be relaxed, interesting, and yet still has that sense of occasion to it.
The menu makes the most of seasonal produce, with the enthusiasm and passion of new Head Chef Dan Miles evident in each dish. We started with warm bread and oil from local bakery Hobbs House, and a bowl of plump Nocellara del Belice olives, before tucking into starters. Two seafood options caught our eye – the cluster of succulent Sautéed Tiger Prawns that spilled from atop sourdough were a definite favourite, uniting perfectly with the firm broad beans that burst in the mouth, ideal with crumbly, salty feta. The prawns had an unmistakable chargrilled taste that added a delectable smokiness to the otherwise vibrant combination, and with the fresh spike of mint and dusting of herbs then it was a winning dish.
And the Sweetcorn and Crab Fritters were one of my stars of the entire menu – lightly fried nuggets of succulent crab meat combined with golden pops of sweetcorn, served on silky avocado puree. Satisfying, robust, and yet impossibly fluffy and light, they were the perfect starter for a sunny evening and really set the tastebuds alight with the vibrant flavours.
For the main courses, I once more opted for fish – a Pan-Fried Cornish Cod served in a Spanish style with borlotti beans, chorizo and a red pepper stew. The stew was everything one could wish it to be – rustic and packed with authentic flavours, but not overwhelming. Huge chunks of salty, intense chorizo were a delicious contrast to the delicate white cod, cooked perfectly so it fell apart at the touch of a fork and yet still had a gratifyingly crisp skin. Delving into the mixture of ingredients and scooping the rich stew onto bread with my spoon, I could have been in a simple taverna in Bilbao. A thoroughly enjoyable main course that ticked all the boxes.
My dining partner had the Roast Mendip Lamb – a prettily pink slab of meat in a glossy broth that packed astounding flavour from braised peas and the woody, autumnal smokiness of bacon chunks. When combined with baby gem and spongy griolles, then the textures and spring-like energy of the dish made it impossible not to finish.
Still, each portion was carefully designed to not leave us feeling bloated, so we could enjoy the delicious desserts on offer. Two of the best are the Chocolate Mousse and Eton Mess – the latter a tumble of crunchy meringue, silky cream, the sharp juiciness of raspberries, and the unexpected but wholly welcome addition of white chocolate. And the mousse is a must for any fans of the cocoa bean – impossibly indulgent, slathered with caramel sauce and vanilla cream, and a perfect way to end a sumptuous meal.
We left Café 15 as dusk was falling, the scents of the flowers outside were permeating the air, and a contented burble of voices drifted from the windows of Bar 15. It’s evident that No.15 Great Pulteney hotel has established itself as a destination spot in Bath, and although one shouldn’t judge a book by its cover, it’s great to see the passion for quirky interiors extends to a dedication for quality food and drink. No.15 Great Pulteney is ‘luxury for the curious’ – and anyone interested in honest, delicious food, made with love and served in a relaxed space, will be very happy at Café 15.
Want to visit Café 15? Head to the hotel’s website no15greatpulteney.co.uk/eat-drink/cafe-15/